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  • BARF and food supplements

     Le BARF facile et économique

    Nourrir sainement son chien sans se ruiner

    Une des obsessions quand on parle de nourrir son chien au Barf ou à la ration ménagère, c’est la peur d’une alimentation déséquilibrée, contrairement à la croquette, qui elle grâce à plus de cinquante ans de marketing acharné, nous est vantée comme parfaitement ajusté au nano gramme près.

    Cela est très discutable, notamment car aucun être vivant sur terre ( même les humains!) ne consomme à chaque repas la dose parfaite de micro et macro nutriments.

    Les recherches modernes tendent d’ailleurs à démontrer l’importance des enzymes vivantes notamment pour le renforcement immunitaire et la prevention des maladies auto-immunes et cancéreuses. Si ces sujets vous intéressent lisez aussi nos pages Food And Health

    Cela dit, même si en donnant une base très simple de carcasses, viande et restes de table on peut faire largement aussi bien (ou mieux) et moins cher qu’avec de la nourriture industrielle, on peut quand même faire encore mieux avec quelques compléments alimentaires assez économiques et efficaces.

    A une époque où l’on nous parle tant du bien être animal, la question du bien-être psychologique induit par une bonne gamelle est souvent oubliée!

    Barf et compléments alimentaires

    Petit rappel des bases.

    L’essentiel : une base d’os charnu.

    Le régime BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food tel que décrit notamment  par le Docteur Ian Billinghurst)  vise à respecter les besoins naturels du chien : de la viande crue, des os, des abats… et un peu de bon sens !

    Barf et compléments alimentaires

    Pour les quantités :

    – Chiens adultes : comptez environ 2 à 3 % du poids corporel par jour.

    -Chiots : jusqu’à 10 % du poids à 2 mois, en diminuant progressivement avec la croissance. Vous pouvez aussi lire notre notre article How to adjust a dog's food ration?

    Composition type des gamelles :

    Viande et os (60- 80% du poids de la gamelle totale):

    • 4 à 5 jours par semaine : carcasses de poulet (environ 25 % d’os et 75 % de viande/peau).
    • 1 à 2 jours par semaine : cuisses ou pilons de poulet, plus riches en viande (80 % muscle, 20 % os).
    • 1 jour par semaine : un repas à base de viande rouge + abats (foie, cœur, rognons…).

    Et on n’hésite pas à recycler les restes de table (20- 40% de la gamelle):

    • légumes cuits ou crus, riz, pâtes, pain rassis, fruits … voire un peu de croquettes si besoin. Pas besoin d’être anti-céréales c’est un argument markéting, sauf allergie elles ne posent pas de problème en soi si on est en-dessous de 40% de la gamelle totale.

    Les compléments alimentaires essentiels

    Quelques ajouts simples suffisent à équilibrer la ration et renforcer la vitalité du chien :

    • Levure de bière (2 à 4 g / 30 kg) : vitamines B, peau, poil, immunité.
    • Poudre de varech (kelp) (0,5 à 1 g / 30 kg) : iode et oligo-éléments.
    • Huile de saumon ou de sardine (1 c à café/jour) : oméga-3 anti-inflammatoires

     Les petits plus à ajouter de temps en temps

    Pas forcément indispensables tous les jours, mais utiles de temps en temps ou si on veut faire encore mieux :

    • Yaourt nature ou fromage blanc (une grosse cuillère à soupe de temps en temsp) : flore intestinale.
    • Vinaigre de cidre bio (1 c. à café dans la gamelle 1 à 2 x semaine) : digestion, acidité, minéraux.
    • Huile végétale de qualité (tournesol, lin, cameline…)  (1 c. à café dans la gamelle 1 à 2 x semaine): oméga-6 ou 3 selon le cas.
    • Jaune d’œuf cru (1 à 2 x/semaine) : biotine, vit. A/D/E
    • Carcasses de crevettes: Chitine et glucosamine : favorisent la santé articulaire (comme la moule verte), utiles chez les chiens actifs ou âgés, minéraux marins : calcium, phosphore, magnésium, iode.
    • Coquille d’oeuf broyée: calcium,  magnésium, zinc, bore, cuivre, fer, manganèse, strontium — en très petite quantité, mais utiles.
    • Moule verte (1,5 à 3 g / 30 kg) : articulations, souplesse, confort possible tous les jours
    • Curcuma + poivre noir : anti-inflammatoire doux (0,5 à 1 g curcuma/j) si inflammation, douleurs articulaires, entraînement intensif.
    • Graines de courge moulues (1,5 à 2 g / 30 kg) : zinc, possible tous les jours
    • Poissons gras ( sardines, thon, saumon…) : riches en oméga-3, vitamine D et protéines hautement digestibles — 1 à 2 fois par semaine, 30- 50g g pour un chien de 30 kg.
    • Huile de foie de morue : source de vitamines A et D + EPA/DHA — 1 ml/10 kg de poids, 1 fois/semaine maximum (éviter surdosage en vitamine A).
    • Feuilles de thé vert : riches en antioxydants (catéchines) protecteurs cellulaires — 0,5 g/30 kg, 1 fois/semaine maximum, bien séchées.
    • Herbes (thym, romarin, origan, etc.) : digestives, antioxydantes et antiseptiques légers — 1 à 2 pincées/jour pour un chien de 30 kg, à saupoudrer sur la ration.

     En conclusion : une alimentation simple, saine et économique

    Nourrir son chien avec des aliments crus ou frais n’est pas si compliqué.

    Pas besoin d’acheter du bison bio ou des baies d’açaï : des carcasses de poulet, quelques abats et des restes des compléments simples et un peu de bon sens suffisent.

    Rappelons que le chien survit au côté de l’humain depuis plus de 30000 ans en mangeant ses restes, et que c’est même probablement pour ces fameux restes qu’il a renoncé à sa liberté de loup… mais c’est là un autre sujet…

    © 2025 Élevage des Crocs Véritables

     

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  • Guard or Defense Episode 2

    Bloodlines, selection and balance between guard and defense

    The family protection dog is neither an ordinary pet, nor a sporting dog, nor a military or police dog.

    When talking about protection, it's essential to distinguish between two very distinct missions: territorial guarding and defense. Often, wanting both means having a less specialized dog.

    Garde ou défense
    Uther of True Fangs

    Each position involves different requirements, both in terms of selection and education.

    In this article, we discuss the choice of lineage, puppy, essential living conditions, and above all the adaptation of the path according to the expected role.

    Guard, defense, or both: three different logics

    * A defense dog acts on command or by analyzing the situation. It accompanies its owner outside the home, encounters people without reacting, but remains vigilant. It must be able to demonstrate great neutrality, but also be able to react with force, lucidity, and composure. It deters by its presence, but it must also know how to intervene if necessary.

    It is a very socially exposed dog, therefore very supervised.

    * The guard dog, on the other hand, protects a territory that it considers its own. It acts without orders, by instinct, through the fence or from a distance. It must not attack but above all deter: its bark, its posture, its gaze are its weapons. It must be stable but instinctive, self-confident but not sociable towards strangers.

    Garde ou défense

    Most dogs are very active as soon as they spot a fellow dog or a wild animal approaching their territory, but few do so these days when it comes to humans; this distinction is fundamental.

    * The dog capable of performing both at a high level is rare and relies on a perfect compromise: instinct, nervous balance, good training, fine management of territory and the bond with humans.

    This is possible with a rigorously selected German Shepherd, raised in good conditions and consistently monitored.

    The defense dog: a balance between sociability and restraint

    For defense, it is essential that the dog be exposed from a very early age to a wide variety of environments: markets, parks, city centers, train stations, narrow passages, crowds... He must meet all kinds of people without this arousing in him either fear or euphoria. He must be curious, solid, and capable of discernment.

    Garde ou défense

    Theo Real Fangs

    But that doesn't mean you have to make him accessible to everyone. It's important to never let him be petted, fed, or solicited by strangers. He must remain neutral, suspicious, but not reactive. The bond of trust must be exclusively centered on his owner or family.

    The guard dog must learn to alert on command, bark, analyze an attitude, and calm down as quickly as possible. These skills are developed with a trainer or assistant, in a rigorous environment.

    Biting as such is not essential if the work is done well.

    IGP type training (if you don't know what it is Click here) can however be used as a tool, provided that the mechanisms are understood: biting should never be the basis of learning, but come second as a reward for courage and commitment, not as a driving force for action. A dog that bites because it likes to bite an artifice (costume or cuff) = prey instinct.

    This is not necessarily a guard dog. It reacts to movement, not intent.

    It is therefore crucial not to confuse a sporting dog with a civil protection dog.

    Furthermore, remember that in France, training a dog to attack (the active biting phase) is out of the question for an individual. In other countries, such as the United States, for example, this type of training is common.

    Dogs from purely sporting breeding lines are often highly motivated by and for biting: fast, powerful, but sometimes lacking vigilance and/or too impulsive and dependent on humans.

    If this aspect interests you, also read our articles and pages on this subject: Prey instinct in modern lineages  ,   Limits of a sports-centered selection  ,  Dog sports: a field of expression   And   Thinking about selection differently 

    Needless to say, dogs from show lines, focused solely on appearance, are rarely able to perform a reliable protection mission.

    In the absence of behavioral selection oriented in this direction, and for good reason, this type of dog must allow itself to be touched and handled by the judge and its handler at the exhibition (who is sometimes not the owner himself).

    This does not mean that a protection dog cannot participate in dog sports.

    On the contrary, a well-chosen activity (obedience, tracking, adapted IGP) can strengthen complicity and balance. But it must always remain in service of the ultimate goal, and not become an escape from instinct or a source of confusion.

    Poorly targeted training can be counterproductive or even harmful to the main objective.

    Both males and females can fulfill this role, each with their own unique qualities.

    The guard dog: instinct, territory, stability

    Guarding is based on territorial instinct, the desire to defend a clearly defined area, and a form of behavioral autonomy. The dog must feel at home, in close contact with its family, while maintaining a clear distrust of strangers.

    Galerie photos, Galerie vidéos

    The guard dog is primarily a deterrent. It protects a territory, detects anything out of the ordinary, and signals an approach or attempted intrusion.

    Its role is primarily to scare people away: it makes its voice heard, makes its presence felt. It is not necessarily intended to make contact with the intruder.

    This type of guard is especially suitable for isolated homes. In cities, deterrent barking can quickly cause problems with neighbors.

    The ideal, simplest, and most effective approach is to form a male-female pair that lives together in freedom on the territory. They form a mini-pack. This creates a natural balance in reactions, reinforces stability and attachment to the territory, and promotes instincts and growth.

    Otherwise, it is generally easier to find a male with this ability, especially if the territory to be protected is large.

    But the dog is a pack animal, he likes company and he will be less happy and balanced in his work if he lives alone. Read also What the German Shepherd requires on a daily basis

    The bond with the family must be strong and respectful: esteem, affection, structure. The guard dog must primarily be a dog that is completely harmless and gentle with its family.

    Selection is even more important here than for defense: the guard instinct cannot be invented. Choosing the lineage is the number one point, then comes choosing the puppy within the litter.

    It is likely that a breeder who does not offer character selection or who tells you " all my dogs guard", is either ignorant, or at best is lying to himself, which is like playing the lottery.

    It is not an exact science, but we must at least try to detect within the litter the visible beginnings of this instinct: a puppy that is too sociable or too elusive, too dominant, should often be excluded.

    You have to know how to observe the interaction within the litter, the reaction to the unknown, the ability to isolate yourself and monitor.

    If you want to be sure, you should wait between 6 and 12 months, which is rarely possible.

    This is only the beginning, it is then a matter of making it mature properly, not inhibiting but on the contrary strengthening the instincts.

    This is especially important during the first two years: the dog must grow up in an environment that makes him happy, surrounded by kindness. A dog that feels respected and well-fed will, in turn, naturally seek to protect what he perceives as vital.

    Education: respect for instinct, control of context

    Even a guard dog needs outdoor experiences. He must be able to walk in the city and be around other humans or dogs without panic or aggression, but without seeking contact either. He must be harmless outside the territory, but reserved.

    In the territory, the first experiences must be carefully supervised. During its first year, the puppy should be isolated from any direct contact with outsiders in the family circle: separate room, kennel, barrier, ideally a distance of about 10m should be left.

    It is obvious that if the puppy shows signs of alert, often at nightfall, it is not a question of reprimanding him but on the contrary of congratulating him.

    This strengthens his trust and exclusivity towards his family.

    From the earliest age of 6 months, often closer to 10 to 12 months, depending on the dog's maturity, you can begin the first guard training exercises: in the absence of the owner, a stranger (assistant) comes to show himself through the fence, unannounced. At the first signs of alert from the dog (barking, posture, surveillance), the assistant moves away, feigning fear and flight. The owner then goes out and calmly congratulates his dog.

    These exercises reinforce the instinct without forcing it. Here again, the goal is not to make the dog bite, but to strengthen deterrence and confidence in its ability to deter.

    Later, control exercises can be introduced, asking the dog to tolerate a presence in the territory (for example the postman) without reacting, in order to refine its understanding of limits and roles.

    Sélection du Berger Allemand, la garde

    Building a reliable and suitable pair

    A defense dog, a guard dog, or a dog that combines both functions, require different selections, methods, and living environments.

    It is not a matter of performance, but of adequacy between the individual, his environment, his missions and the nature of his link to the master.

    The German Shepherd, provided it is chosen carefully, from a stable and lucid lineage, remains today one of the rare breeds capable of ensuring one or the other of these roles - or even both - while respecting the law, security and family balance.

    In conclusion, it seems important to us to distinguish between guard and defense functions, to restore their nobility, because of all the tasks to be accomplished, especially in a country like France, it is perhaps one of the most subtle that is required of the dog.

    It seems essential to us that everyone clarifies what they are looking for as a priority objective (company only or more sport, mission, guard or defense) and does not confuse them with each other or with the work required of professional dogs.

    Questioning these subjects means, above all, choosing a vision of the human-dog relationship that we wish to build.

    Is yours already conscious and assumed?

    Berger allemand elevage- Skinner et Pavlov

     

    © 2025 Élevage des Crocs Véritables

  • Guard or Defense?

    Episode 1: understand the real differences between custody and defense, and what the law allows (or prohibits).

    Home protection, on-demand response, deterrent role: between preconceived ideas and legal reality, we set the foundations straight in a series of concrete articles.

    Garde ou défense?

    The German Shepherd is one of the few breeds capable of both autonomously guarding a territory and actively defending its owners. It's important to understand what these two functions entail, as they require very different skills and supervision.

    Too often confused in the collective imagination, guarding and defense obey distinct behavioral, technical, and, above all, legal logics. This article aims to clarify these essential concepts, in order to allow each owner of a protection dog to act responsibly and effectively, particularly within the framework of French legislation.

    Guard and defense: two very distinct missions

    Guard: an autonomous deterrent

    The guard dog acts without waiting for orders. It detects any strangers in the family circle and adopts a deterrent attitude: barking, excitement, repeated movements along fences, high posture. It does not seek physical contact, but imposes a strong presence, intended to force the intruder to abandon it without direct confrontation.

    Garde ou défense
    Uther of True Fangs

    This behavior is based on territorial instinct. It is all the more effective when the area is fenced, clearly defined, and identified by the dog as its domain. The guard dog is not an aggressive dog, but a vigilant, self-confident dog, capable of reacting without spiraling into turmoil.

    Defense: controlled neutrality, targeted action

    The guard dog must be able to operate in a variety of human environments: on a walk, in a store, at the market, in a garden with guests. It must remain neutral as long as no real threat arises.

    Garde ou défense
    Yannick Le Gallou and O'Gun

    But in times of danger, he must be able to react on command or in a controlled manner to direct aggression. This requires rigorous selection, precise training, and unfailing emotional stability.

    Why the German Shepherd is one of the few dogs that can do both roles

    Few breeds combine the qualities necessary for both independent and deterrent guarding and controlled defense on command. The German Shepherd, when properly selected, is one of them. It has:

    • a strong ability to concentrate and analyze,
    • an ability to work in close contact with people,
    • a nervous strength superior to that of many other breeds.

    Conversely:

    • Molossers are powerful but sometimes too reactive.
    • Livestock protection dogs have a behavioral autonomy that is difficult to reconcile with a civilian framework.
    • Sporty Malinois can be unstable, hyperactive, and lack neutrality in social settings or vigilance and suspicion when left to their own devices.

    Garde ou défense ?

    The German Shepherd offers a balance of intelligence, discernment, strength, docility, and the ability to channel its instincts. This makes it, particularly in France, an excellent working dog for mixed functions, provided it is well selected and supervised.

    Let us point out, however, that guarding and defense require certain almost opposite qualities, so a dog that is excellent in one or other of the two aspects will often be of a lower level in its opposite; we will come back to this in a future chapter.

    What French law says

    Civil liability: the owner is fully liable

    Article 1243 of the Civil Code states that “the owner of an animal […] is liable for the damage caused by the animal.” This liability is automatic.

    Criminal liability: use of animals as weapons

    Article 222-13 of the Criminal Code considers a bite to be aggravated violence if it is used deliberately. Article R.623-3 punishes allowing a dangerous animal to roam.

    What to do if your dog bites someone or you have been bitten? here

    Concrete examples and case law

    • Bite by an intruder at night on enclosed land: civil liability incurred, no criminal sanctions (this is an example, but depending on the context a completely different judgment could have been rendered).
    • Attack through low fence: conviction for negligence.
    • Attack on a passer-by in the street: disproportionate use, criminal proceedings initiated
    • The important thing to remember is that self-defense and proportionate use of force must be demonstrated in order to avoid criminal sanctions.

    Internationally: models unsuited to the French context

    In Italy, the defense of private property is reinforced, in the United States, some states apply very broad self-defense laws, overall on these subjects the legislation is more permissive, . But these practices are not transposable. In France, self-defense with a dog remains strictly regulated, and can never be improvised.

    Conclusion

    Garde ou défense ?

    Understanding the distinction between guard and defense is essential. The German Shepherd can fulfill both functions, provided it is properly selected, trained, and used in compliance with the law. This not only ensures the dog's effectiveness, but also the legal security of its owner.

    In the next article, we will discuss the importance of choosing the right breed and puppy, why a sporting dog, even one with experience in biting, is not what is sought for this type of task, and we will highlight the essential living conditions to offer these precious allies, to make them both more efficient and happy.

    Guard or Defense Episode 2 here

    If you are interested in these topics, also read our L pageskeeps a job? And  Property custody

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    © 2025 Élevage des Crocs Véritables

  • German Shepherd and Children: What You Need to Know

    The German Shepherd is a dog renowned for its intelligence, loyalty, and versatility. Used for decades as a working dog, it has also always been a regular companion in homes.

    But can they really live with young children? The answer is yes, in some cases, but not without precautions. Here are the things you need to know before welcoming a German Shepherd into a family with children.

    Élevage de Berger Allemand - Enfant

    1. A dog naturally close to its social group

    The German Shepherd is a breed that is very attached to its home. It is often attentive to what is happening around it and easily develops bonds with family members, including children.

    Some individuals will even naturally adopt a posture of vigilance or protection towards younger people.

    But this closeness can sometimes be misinterpreted: the dog is not a babysitter. Its reassuring presence does not replace parental education or active adult supervision.

    2. Physical power that imposes clear rules

    Even though he is well-intentioned, the German Shepherd remains a large, powerful dog with developed muscles.

    His enthusiasm can translate into abrupt behavior, especially when he is young: running, jumping, pushing without wanting to.

    This can be enough to cause a small child to fall, or to injure them unintentionally during poorly supervised play.

    Berger Allemand Enfants

    It is therefore essential to set boundaries early on, teach the dog not to rush at children, and manage moments of excitement. Training in calmness and impulse control should be an integral part of daily life.

    3. No dog should be left alone with a young child.

    It's a basic rule, valid for all breeds: a child should never be left alone with a dog, no matter how reliable it is.

    Communication between a young child and a dog can be confusing: sudden movements, shouting, unpredictable reactions can generate stress or inappropriate behavior in the animal.

    Because the German Shepherd is a sensitive and highly reactive dog, it can be difficult to cope with certain clumsiness or feel cornered if it doesn't have the opportunity to isolate itself. It is essential to respect its signals, give it its own space, and not force it to interact.

    4. An intelligent dog, but one that needs structure

    The German Shepherd understands quickly, but that doesn't mean he obeys without limits. His quick wit means he sometimes tests the rules. He can also be in constant need of stimulation, which can tire out a family that is not available or already overworked.

    Consistency in training is essential: the dog must understand what is and isn't allowed in its interactions with children. This requires time, patience, and sometimes the help of a dog training professional.

    5. A dog that can live well with children... if they are also educated to respect animals

    Respect must go both ways. Many incidents occur not because a dog is aggressive, but because it is being harassed, continually solicited, or handled without its consent.

    Pulling ears, riding the dog, playing in the dog's basket: these are all common behaviors among young children, but should be avoided at all costs.

    Even before the dog arrives, it is therefore important to educate the child about the presence of an animal: do not disturb it when it is eating, do not wake it up, do not hold it tightly, and above all let it move away if it feels the need.

    To go further, also consult the official recommendations ANSES

    6. A good companion, but not suitable for all families

    The German Shepherd can become an excellent companion for a dynamic, present family, capable of supervising interactions and meeting its needs.

    It is not recommended in a home where adults are rarely available, where dog training is neglected, or in families looking for a passive and undemanding dog.

    This breed requires commitment, both physical and mental. It thrives in a stable environment, where rules are consistent, activities are regular, and relationships are balanced.

    Berger Allemand Enfants

    Conclusion

    The German Shepherd can live very well with children, but it's not a dog for everyone. Its strength, intelligence, sensitivity, and need for activity make it a demanding dog, demanding as much from its owners as it can give them. Proper socialization, careful training, and mutual respect between the dog and the child are the keys to a successful cohabitation.

    You can also consult our section Living with a German Shepherd? Here

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  • Skinner and Pavlov (continued)

    Skinner And Pavlov in modern dressage (following)

    Vivre avec un Berger Allemand- Skinner et Pavlov

    Restoring classical conditioning to its place or when emotion becomes the reward.

    In our previous article, we distinguished Skinner's operant conditioning—now widely used in modern methods—from Pavlov's classical conditioning, often relegated to the status of a mere historical anecdote. However, the latter systematically acts in the background; far from being outdated, it is, on the contrary, at the heart of the emotional relationship between the dog and its owner.

    As we increasingly talk about "motivation" in training, it is urgent to remember that motivation is not always a trade for a toy or a treat, at the risk of the latter becoming the source of classical/Pavlovian conditioning. As a reminder, it is through repetition that the dog associates a sound, a place, an action with a physiological response. (The dog salivates when it hears the bell).

    If the dog is happy, excited, motivated every time he sees the ball, the sausage, the costume, the treat, it is normal and positive, a source of motivation for operant conditioning, (reinforcement action +- or punishment action +-).

    But it can and should also emerge from the almost invisible affective association between a behavior and an emotion generated by the presence and integration with its master.

    When pleasure becomes Pavlovian

    Classical conditioning, by its very nature, works without the dog having to "do" anything. It links two elements: a neutral stimulus (voice, attitude, situation) and an emotional or physiological response (pleasure, relaxation, security, etc.). This process is automatic, not voluntary, and that's precisely what makes it so powerful.

    Let's take a simple example: a master who praises his dog every time he returns to the recall. If his intonation and the associated gesture are consistent and repeated, the action (in this case, the recall) ends up evoking a pleasant sensation in the dog. Returning to the master is no longer just an action to "gain something": it has become a positively emotionally charged moment.

    In other words, through Pavlovian conditioning, the teacher's praise acquires a positive emotional value which then allows it to function as a true positive reinforcer in learning.

    From Conditioning to Bonding: The Chemistry of Attachment

    Animal neuroscience has confirmed what many intuitive trainers already knew: pleasant social interactions trigger the release of oxytocin in dogs, just as they do in humans. This hormone is involved in bonding, trust, and cooperation.

    In other words, a dog can learn to associate the presence, voice, or even the gaze of its owner with a feeling of deep well-being—without the need to add a relay object like a ball or a treat.

    Artificialities or natural interactions?

    This is not to denounce classic reinforcers, nor to say that they have no place. They are extremely useful in learning specific behaviors, in motivating effort, or in managing energy levels. (To learn more about operant conditioning you can also read our page here)

    We too often forget that the dog is also a sensitive and social being, deeply receptive to the emotions of its master and that this type of reinforcement, built on the bond, should be the cornerstone of the educational relationship.

    By trying to "professionalize" training, we risk reducing all interactions to transactions: you do this, you get that. However, just as with humans, the joy of cooperating, of giving pleasure, of feeling a sincere connection should be a powerful source of motivation in itself.

    Consciously practicing classical conditioning

    How can this mechanism be integrated into daily practice? Here are some concrete ideas:

    Systematically combine intonation and physical contact: a warm voice coupled with a constant caress in its form becomes a marker of security and pleasure.

    Maintain emotional stability: a calm, consistent, predictable master becomes an essential emotional reference point for the dog.

    Value human presence as a source of pleasure: not to let reward objects monopolize attention. The teacher, through his attitude, can and must become rewarding in itself.

    Berger allemand elevage- Skinner et Pavlov

    A motivation that lasts

    The greatest advantage of classical conditioning is its stability over time. A dog motivated solely by objects may eventually become bored or distracted by a more stimulating environment (typically a cat vs. a ball). In contrast, a dog emotionally engaged in the relationship with its owner finds this connection a more consistent, deeper motivator.

    Towards a new ethology of dressage

    Revaluing Pavlovian mechanisms in training means returning to a more refined relational ethology. It means recognizing that the dog can find its reward in the quality of the bond, beyond objects or routines. The dog is not simply an executor seeking reinforcement: it is a sensitive partner, capable of integrating social interactions into its emotional memory.

    We often talk about techniques, plans, and protocols. But it's also time to consider what's at play on a more subtle level: the influence of our gestures, our voices, our presence on the dog's internal chemistry.

    Because emotion is not an abstraction: it is neurobiology, secretion of oxytocin, activation of dopaminergic circuits.
    And it is here that Pavlov, well beyond the bell, opens up for us a concrete path of access to this invisible territory where the link becomes an endogenous, lasting and deeply rooted reward.

     

    © 2025 Élevage des Crocs Véritables

     

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  • Skinner and Pavlov in modern dressage

    Canine Conditioning and Training: A Reflection on the Mechanisms of Education

    In the world of dog training, we often discuss methods, tools, rewards, and reinforcements. But we sometimes forget to revisit the basic psychological mechanisms that govern a dog's learning. In particular, two fundamental types of conditioning deserve to be distinguished: classical (or Pavlovian) conditioning and operant (or Skinnerian) conditioning.

    Classical conditioning (Pavlov)

    Discovered by Ivan Pavlov, this type of conditioning relies on the unconscious association between a neutral stimulus and an emotional or physiological response. The famous example of Pavlov's dogs salivating at the bell perfectly illustrates this mechanism: the bell, repeatedly paired with the presentation of food, eventually triggers salivation on its own.

    In dogs, we use this mechanism constantly without even realizing it. A soft tone of voice, a caress, or a smile from the owner, repeated frequently, can become powerful reinforcers because they are associated with a feeling of well-being. This is not a voluntary action by the dog to obtain something; it is an emotional response to a situation perceived as pleasant.

    Operant conditioning (Skinner)

    B.F. Skinner described another type of learning: operant conditioning. Here, the animal acts voluntarily to obtain a reward (or avoid punishment). This is the system of positive reinforcements (treats, toys, biting games) and negative reinforcements (removal of unpleasant pressure).

    Today, the majority of modern training methods rely heavily on this operant conditioning. The dog is taught to "work" to obtain an external reward: its ball, its food, its sausage, its biting game. These methods work very well technically, and allow for complex and precise behaviors to be achieved.

    The risk of a “transactional” relationship

    Skinner et Pavlov dans le dressage moderne

    However, this highly effective approach has a limitation: the risk of focusing all of the dog's motivation on the reward object, and not on the relationship with the owner. The dog executes the command to get its ball, not for the pleasure of pleasing its owner.

    Now, the dog, as a social animal, descends from a pack animal whose cooperation with the group is a fundamental need.

    Used well, Pavlovian conditioning can powerfully reinforce this emotional and social dimension.

    A petting, or even an approving look combined with a warm tone of voice, can trigger the release of oxytocin and endorphins in dogs—the hormones of social pleasure and bonding.

    The dog then learns that the simple fact of satisfying its master is, in itself, a source of pleasure, even a pleasure greater than that of an external reward (ball, sausage, treat, etc.).

    Skinner et Pavlov dans le dressage moderne

    A balance track

    Ideally, balanced dog training should integrate both dimensions. Operant conditioning is valuable for learning behaviors. But classical conditioning helps give emotional meaning to these behaviors: pleasing their owner becomes, for the dog, an end in itself.

    It is probably on this balance that the best master-dog relationships are based: a dog that works well and above all works for and with its master.

     

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  • How to adjust a dog's food ration?

    Puppy and adult ration, differences

    Many dog owners ask themselves the same question: How much should I feed my dog? And more importantly: Should I change the ration between puppy, adult, and senior?

    Ration alimentaire chien

    The answer may come as a surprise: the basis of a dog's natural diet remains surprisingly stable throughout their life. This article offers a practical approach, informed by experience and enriched by the key principles of the BARF model.

    This topic is also addressed and developed HERE

    A stable ration, evolving needs

    Contrary to popular belief, a puppy doesn't eat radically differently from an adult. It eats more in proportion to its body weight (up to 10 %), but the composition of the ration remains essentially the same. An adult, on the other hand, eats around 2 % of its weight. Therefore, it's mainly the quantities that are adjusted, not the food categories.

    > Concrete example:
    A 5 kg puppy will eat around 500 g/day, divided into 2 or 3 meals.
    A 25 kg adult will eat about 500 g/day too, but in 1 meal.
    The type of food remains the same.

    A ration based on meaty bones

    The backbone of the ration, according to the BARF approach, is based on meaty bones. Many experienced breeders, including those who follow the recommendations of the Dr Ian Billinghurst (Give Your Dog A Bone) or of the Dr. Karen Becker, estimate that the bone part should represent approximately 20 % of the meat ration (or approximately 15% of the total ration). This allows for a good calcium-phosphorus balance, essential for growing puppies. Furthermore, the search for a balance between the different micro-nutrients must be thought of weekly and not per meal, no living being on earth regulates itself at mealtime.

    Example of a simple weekly structure to vary meat sources:

    Days 1, 2, 4, 5: Chicken back (75 % meat + skin, 25 % bones)

    Day 3, 7: Meaty thighs (less bone)

    Day 6: Red meats + offal (boneless)

    Tip: Avoid adding calcium (bones) on offal days, so as not to hinder the absorption of iron and zinc.

    Simple and effective supplementation

    The meat ration represents 60 to 80 % of the total ration. The remainder can be adapted according to preferences and availability:

    Fresh fruits and vegetables (cooked or raw)

    Table leftovers (rice, bread, vegetables, etc.)

    Good quality kibble (for variety or simplicity)

    Supplements: eggs, fish oil, sardines, brewer's yeast, etc.

    The key here is flexibility. The key is to ensure a consistent bone and meat base.

    Croquettes: a marketing segmentation more than a biological necessity

    The kibble industry today offers a multitude of products: food for small breed puppies, large breeds, juniors, sterilized adults, seniors, specific breeds, etc. This abundance is in reality less justified on a biological level than on a marketing level.

    Indeed, no serious study demonstrates that a dog of breed X needs a different kibble than breed Y, or that a senior dog requires a radically different processed food. This segmentation mainly allows for the multiplication of ranges and the selling at a higher price of products that are sometimes not very suitable, particularly for puppies.

    According to the work of Larsen et al., 2012 (Nutritional needs of puppies, Vet Clinics of North America), the nutritional needs of puppies vary mainly in proportion to their weight and growth, but not in their nature.

    The case of large breed puppies is telling: many "special large breed" kibbles are in fact poorly balanced in calcium and phosphorus. An excess of calcium or an unbalanced ratio (ideally around 1.2:1) can promote osteoarticular disorders (see Hazewinkel & Tryfonidou, 2002), particularly in rapidly growing puppies.

    A well-constructed natural diet—based on balanced meaty bones, a variety of meats, and attention to body signals—meets these needs much better than a segmented industrial food.

    Observation, the key to adjustment

    Ration alimentaire chien

    The perfect food balance is not mathematical: it is observation that prevails.

    Ribs too visible? The dog may be too thin.

    Slight waistline, wide back? The dog is overweight.

    Adjust the quantities daily, as you would with a growing child.

    In summary

    The puppy and the adult receive the same standard ration, in adjusted quantity.

    A balanced ration contains 60-80 % of meat (including 10-20 % of bones, 10% of offal, etc.) and 20-40 % of supplements (vegetables, cooked cereals, table scraps, etc.).

    Observation is your best tool: neither scales nor charts, but common sense.

    This topic is also addressed and developed HERE

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  • Prey instinct in modern lineages

    Prey instinct in modern lines: between performance and behavioral drifts

    In recent decades, the selection of working dogs, particularly in the German Shepherd and the Malinois, has become strongly oriented towards and through sport.

    This orientation placed the prey instinct or predation  at the heart of breeding criteria. While this has resulted in fast, energetic, and impressive dogs, it has also led to certain excesses, particularly in terms of behavior. This topic is also addressed here.

    The prey instinct: a driving force that has become hegemonic

    Instinct de proie berger allemand

    The prey instinct—the ability to pursue, capture, and interact with a moving object—is valuable in many disciplines: obedience, search, detection, and sport biting.

    It allows for extreme motivation and great explosiveness and is part of the dog's ancestral instincts.

    However, in modern lines, this instinct is sometimes taken to extremes. The dog becomes what some call a "Beutegeier"—a dog focused solely on prey, without discrimination.

    He "plays the game," pursues, bites, retrieves, with impressive intensity... as long as the framework is mastered. Out of context, his commitment can become inappropriate, even problematic.

    "The dog plays the game, but in a serious situation, there is nothing behind it."

    This over-specialization often comes at the expense of other instincts, such as vigilance or defense—two pillars of canine behavior, once essential in working lines.

    We will come back to this in a future article.

    And social communication is impoverished.

    This exclusive selection on the prey profoundly modifies the behavioral balance.

    Many dogs from modern lines have lost some of their ability to interact with their peers and manage conflict situations.

    Where some knew how to impose their place through posture, attitude, and gaze, others only know how to bite.

    Their relationship to the world becomes one-dimensional: what moves continues, what resists bites.

    This not only affects cohabitation with other animals, but also the dog's ability to exercise discernment in real-life situations, outside of the sports field.

    An experienced trainer summed up this development as follows:
    “Everyone has a good time no matter what the Sozial Verhalten – if they are left with the Zähnen. »
    → “Many dogs today no longer have any real social behavior – they regulate everything with their teeth.”

    Instinct de proie dans les lignées modernes

    The vocabulary of Eastern breeders: "right" and "left"

    In some breeding traditions from Eastern bloodlines, particularly those influenced by the old DDR standards, breeders distinguished two broad behavioral profiles: "right" dogs and "left" dogs.

    So-called "straight" dogs are very prey-oriented. They are often lively, easy to motivate, and not very suspicious. Their behavior is straightforward, without excessive inhibition.

    This makes them good candidates for sport, but their lack of natural alertness may limit their usefulness in real-life protection or guarding settings.

    So-called "left-handed" dogs, on the other hand, are often more reserved, more attentive to their surroundings.

    They observe before acting, exercise caution, and develop a keen sense of vigilance.

    They do not systematically throw themselves on the prey: their commitment is more measured, but often deeper.

    Their defensive instinct is also more pronounced.

    One breeder described this distinction as follows:
    “Die Linken schauen erst mal – die Rechten rennen gleich los. »
    → “The left looks first – the right charges straight away.”

    This vocabulary, not scientific but derived from decades of empirical observations, helps to shed light on certain oppositions that we find today between ultra-sporty lines and more complete lines, more balanced on an instinctual level.

    Towards a redefinition of the “good working dog”?

    Far from rejecting the sport, this is about highlighting a trend: by focusing on demonstration, some dogs lose depth.

    Prey instinct is a great motivator, but it shouldn't be the sole pillar of selection.

    A complete working dog must be able to express both vigilance and defense, social reading and physical engagement.

    Some ancient dogs, sometimes considered "dull" by modern standards, were actually very thorough and reliable.

    As one former service dog trainer said:
    “Ein echter Diensthund muss nicht schreien, er muss wirken. »
    → “A true service dog doesn’t need to overdo it, he needs to have an effect.”

    In a future article, we will return in more detail to this crucial question: how the hyper-development of the prey instinct can erode the instincts of defense and vigilance, and what this implies for the selection of sustainable lines.

     

     

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